Monday, April 23, 2012

Red Chair Northwest Pale Ale (NWPA) - Deschutes Brewing (Bend, OR)

Red Chair Northwest Pale Ale
Ah!  A red ale... must be tame, easy to drink... something made for the masses.  Not so fast.

There is a special place in my heart for the brewery known as Deschutes. Their name is taken from the river that runs through what I hear is a beautiful place, Bend Oregon, which also resides in the county of the same name. I know them best for having one of the best big brew-pubs in Portland, which furnishes solid food and great fresh beer. Deschutes Brewery has been arround since 1988, making it the youngster amongst it's mid-sized craft-peers in the state (Bridgeport 1984, Widmer 1984, Full Sail 1987), yet they've really begun to make a mark nationally. While visiting relatives in podunk Colorado, friends had both Black Butte and Mirror Pond on hand to quaff, quantifying for me just how prevalent Deschutes footprint had become, now available in all but 5 states (19 total plus a province)West of the mighty Mississippi .

Red Chair itself isn't your everyday Red.  Like Deschutes' other popular seasonal beers (if you consider January to May seasonal), it's all about the hops, which really should be considered Deschutes claim to fame, outside of their flagship beer, for quite a few of those are big pales such as their fresh hopped Fall offerings, big stoutswinter warmers, a sour-bordering-on-barelywine and other great specialty releases. Since Red Chair is one of their newest offerings, named after a chair lift at nearby Mt. Bachelor and brewed since 2009, it certainly has some high expectations to live up to for a red beer.  By all accounts, it most certainly has, cheered by most everyone who's enjoyed this quaff.


While pouring it's evident that this isn't your everyday red, as it flows from the bottle relatively thick, quickly accumulating a good sized and long lasting head of carbonation. First scents include classic, full-bodied IPA characteristics including citrus, pine and that fruity floral bouquet that often accompany beers brewed with cascade and centennial hops. Upon the first pull I taste the big hop flavors that come with a well brewed IPA, again citrus and pine, then a bit of spice and sweet caramel malt, then a long dry IPA finish. The mouthfeel is pretty full with a relatively minor amount of carbonation following the big initial release. What I really love about this beer is the syrupy looking quality of the lacing that slowly recedes back into the fold ever so slowly after each taste. I could go on and on about this beer, simply because it's ever so surprising to find such a bold, flavorful beer inhabiting the world of red beers. Considering it's big hop profile, it's amazing to find that the malt used includes six varieties (Pale, Crystal, Munich, Carapils, Pilsner, Carastan), giving this beer the kind of balance IPA's could only dream about. All this certainly accounts for this apparently modest beer's higher than average ABV of 6.2% and IBU of 60. If you can find this beer near you, pick it up if you can before it goes away in May.  You won't be disappointed.


Prost!

Sunday, April 1, 2012

Faithfull Ale - Dogfish Head Brewery (Milton, DE).

This is not for you...
Where do you start with a beer that's been brewed in honor of a band that's survived 20 years and STILL rocks better than just about any other around?  I could tell you about how difficult the beer was to find upon the first release over the holidays. Or I could start with my own bit of trivia in that I saw this band play before they hit the big time, opening up for Nirvana and The Red Hot Chili Peppers at the LA Sports Arena (December 27th, 1991). Or talk about the last time I saw them, at the United Center in Chicago, with My Morning Jacket opening in 2006.  But wait a second!  This is the beer blog, not the music blog... I appear to have lost my bearings here. Hmmm. Oh, right. This is about Beer. Yes, well...

It's only fitting that a beer adorned with the name of the 1990's most prolific rock act would be honored by Dogfish Head with an old world Belgian Style Golden Ale. A beer that's straight ahead, containing nothing flashy, is easy to swallow, rich, sweet and sour, all in one glass. This beer is "a celebration of Pearl Jam's 20th anniversary as a band and it's extraordinary debut album, Ten," according to the brewers.  And don't let the rock 'n roll label scare you off.  The beer is a delicately hopped strong pale or golden ale, sporting a mere 20 IBU but an ABV of 7%, brewed with "10 additions of black currants over a one hour boil." All these things add up to a dangerous combination of drinkability, subtle old-school bitterness and balance.  And if you drink enough of this, you might just feel like an elderly woman behind the counter in a small town...

at the porch
Presented in 750ml bottle (1 pint 9.4 fl oz) this thing is larger than your average single beer for a sitting. The label and dark glass are a bit foreboding and completely deceived me on what to expect inside. When I think ale, I think bitter, malty, dark brown or black. Upon the pour his thing had an even flow, looking no darker than wheat grains or a hazy golden amber. Quite pretty. Upon first whiff though another story was told. It has that sweet, rich yeasty smell you often find from American lagers.  In fact, it's hard for me not to use the term skunky but that's what it first smelled and tasted like too. But remember, those of you out there who never drink the simple beers, this one is rooted in such flavors so it really does have kind of a blue-collar quality to it that's quite endearing. Mouthfeel is pretty big for what appears at first to be more like a pilsner or lager. Those currants are very subtle or even limited in their blooms. Sure, there's a sweet lingering behind the malty front end, but it's illusive and often drifts immediately into a slightly bitter, fruity/tart after taste. Balanced, slightly sweet, slightly sour, nominal carbonation.

I enjoyed it more as it warmed and it's a fun diversion of a beer but is it worth the mad scavenging that PJ fans endured just to get a taste of when it first came out?  Not really. To be honest, I was mostly underwhelmed by what Dogfish decided to conjure up this time, especially when considering their consistently stellar offerings, in combination with the Pearl Jam anniversary theme. It's good, but not great. Oh well. In the end, I'm left with a feeling of indifference.

Prost!

Thursday, March 15, 2012

Sunday, March 11, 2012

New Belgium - Lips of Faith Series, Cocoa Molé (Ft. Collins, CO)

On a recent trip to Colorado I stopped in at New Belgium's Hub restaurant/bar in Denver's Airport. It was still early yet (9:30 or so) and I was almost certain that I didn't want a beer (a rarity I know), but considering that it had been a harrowing 24hrs leading up to that moment, I figured I might settle for some sort of chocolate liqueur coffee drink or something that'd go well with breakfast. Well, I ended up getting something WAY better.

I asked the bartender what the Lips of Faith tap was and he responded "Coco-mole" which to my mind sounded like something with coconut in it.  But no, it's actually a newer variety of their top of the line Lips of Faith Series that generally retail at a slightly higher price (found a 22oz for $8.09 at my local shop) and are certainly worth the extra dough. So, once I learned that it not only had chocolate in it, but also chile and cinnamon, I figured it'd be the closest I'd ever come to a breakfast beer. And it turned out to be a great one at that.

In addition to cinnamon spice, plus the caramel, chocolate and dark chocolate malts, this heavy ale is brewed with Target Hops (adding an earthy, herbal flavor), Ancho (mild heat and sweet), Guajillo (medium heat, green tea and berries) and Chipotle Chiles (hot and smoky). With all that chocolate and spice, it's no wonder they named it Cocoa Molé, reminiscent of the sauces found in authentic Mexican cuisine or just like a cold version of a Mexican Hot Chocolate. I've been unable to find the IBU on this one (inconsequential really), but the ABV is a gnarly 9.0%, enough to have a 22oz bottle keep you a little more grounded than you may want to admit. In the end, I'm not much of a chili beer person, but this beer strikes just the right balance between sweet, spicy and the booziness to back it all up.


On the pour, aromas of rich chocolate are evident. A small head forms at first but quickly recedes and leaves a limited amount of lacing. The nose consists of chocolate malts (especially dark chocolate), then a little cinnamon and only a faint hint of the spiciness within. Upon drawing, the flavor is immense. The first thing I notice is how thick and full this beer is - one of the heaviest I've ever had. Immediately after, I notice the sweet, rich, chocolate flavor that's in full effect. Next is the cinnamon spice, followed closely behind by a slight, earthy hop bitterness. Last, the slow subtle burn of the chili. I generally don't enjoy spicy beers because they tend to overdo it it by a mile - not the case here, but you may want to think twice about burping...

I love New Belgium beers because they understand what everyday beer drinkers enjoy - enough malt and hoppy enough, but not overly so.  In this instance, it's a whole 'nother ball game. I've never quite had a beer like this and I knew immediately that I loved it more than any other New Beligum I've ever had because it tastes like no other beer they've ever brewed. If this beer is any indication of how choice their Lips of Faith Series truly is, look forward to more delectable delights from it's ranks, sooner than later.

Prost!

Sunday, February 19, 2012

Brouwerij Westmalle - Trappist Tripel (Malle, Belgium)

Ah, that's where New Belguim got their bottles from...
The looming expectations that come with opening a beer like Westmalle's classic Trappist Tripel Ale can sometime surpass the tasting itself.  Or maybe it's just that way with most every highly rated and over fawned over beer, especially those from the old world.  Even more confusing is how distinctly different every variety of trappist ale is from the next.  Sure, most all of them are unfiltered, known for their high malt content and possess flowery hop noses, but in this instance I was quite surprised with what hit my lips.

In my experience with these Belgian Ales, there are a distinct number of draws for me and reasons to keep coming back to the style, most notable of them being the high ABV, the rich maltiness, the smooth body and what I've generally found to be a not too bitter aftertaste - all traits I'm not exactly finding with this Tripel, putting a bit on tilt this time around.  What's more, this beer, as I was afraid of building up to this review, requires being served at a temperature of 45 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit.  A picky one, yes, but certainly worth the additional attention.

If you look closely, you can see plenty shiny bits of sediment.

Upon first pour, there wasn't a wealth of scents wafting up from the glass, but I was immediately struck by the multitude of tiny bits floating about - extra yeast for proper bottle conditioning.  Finishing the pour the head was about as it is above, not too big, no lacing at all and not the sticky sweet foam I've been reading about.  The scent is quite interesting which includes some tart lemongrass, pungent alcohol, and that trappist aroma you know and love.  With the first taste, which makes it all too apparent that this came fresh out of a really cold refrigerator, my initial impression is more that of an over carbonated champagne, than a classic Belgian Ale.  But, then there's the textures and layers of taste: tart lemon, subtle honey, a slightly grassy taste (reminding me of Great Divide's excellent Farmhouse Saison, Colette) then that notoriously heavy booze taste, then more tart/sour fruit to finish it.  A multitude of disparate flavors not doubt, but also a shock to the system, to say the least.

To be completely compliant with the rules, know that the expiry on the back says 04/05/2013, which I guess means it's "good" but that still seems way too long an expiration date to me.  Also of note, the review done by one of the Beer Advocate brothers notes that in Belgium this beer is FAR superior in all it's fresh glory, "obviously ten times fresher than we get in the states." My complaint here is that most any regional craft brewery worth it's salt should have at least one beer that will treat you to better freshness then this does.  To have it shipped halfway around the world, sans a high hop content, these beers require extra yeast to keep them fresh/carbonated, so for me at least, this beer, even after an hour of settling and warming, was far too carbonated, tastes almost a bit skunky and a bit too tart for my tastes.

Of course, as with all these Belgians sporting a high ABV (9.5% in this case), I find that in the end I have no choice but succumb it's beefed up boozy charms.  I'm easy.  But seriously, if you're going to drink this immense and complex Belgian beauty (it got better toward the end), be sure to give it time to warm before drinking and maybe swirl up the extra sediment from the bottom, like I forgot to do until the last quarter glass.  Maybe I got a bad bottle, maybe my tongue's taking the night off or maybe it's just not my favorite version of the trappist style.  Or maybe I'd just rather have a St. Bernardus.  Either way, if you're a Belgian beer freak, you should definitely check it out, as I'll certainly have to do again, if only to have better luck next time.

Prost!

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Stone Brewing (Escondido, CA) - Arrogant Bastard Ale

via the instar group

After watching an unfaithful, bloated and overwrought jerk win an early election in the Republican presidential primaries, there's nothing better than sitting down and drowning your sorrows with a nice big Arrogant Bastard.  My first time with this huge beer came after one of the first times I stepped into a BevMo! in Southern California.  It must have been 2001-2002 or so and I wasn't much of a craft beer drinker at that time.  He intimidated me.  He's so big time, he and his sibling have their own website.  It was evident from the start that he had some redeeming values but I was wary of his strength, his bitterness and his effect on my reality.  It would be a long while before visiting him again.

This bastard is generally classified as an American Strong Ale or maybe a Double/Imperial IPA yet I know him better than that.  Considering the definition is so vague and general (a "style category for beers from 7.0 alcohol by volume and above"), there is a better way to define his personality.  Like many strong ales, his flavor profile is a split personality.  The first, which greets you with open arms upon the first taste is a big malty fellow: sweet, rich, hearty, boozy and quite Belgian. The heavy 7.2% abv comes from the high volume of malts needed to balance the second persona, the Hop Gargoyle. According to Stone, the hops and the IBU used to create His Arrogance are "Classified" but with one taste you'll clearly see that Jekyl and Hyde have nothing on this dude.  It's clear this could quite possibly be a fusion of a Belgian Tripel/Quarupel and an American IPA, like a close cousin to Green Flash's "Le Freak" or nearly a Belgian IPA.  Either way, not to be trifled with.


Upon opening the 22oz bottle, a swift aroma fills the nostrils: caramel, spicy, a bit of citrus.  On the pour more aroma, a light 1 finger head and some sweet sticky lacing.  The color is a phenomenal, yet slightly clouded mahogany, similar to a Quadupel, adding to the excitement of the senses.  The nose belies his twin nature with toasted chocolate malt, a bit of booze and the bold spicy/floral hop aroma.  The first taste is intense: big roasted malt flavor, a brief interlude of sweet goodness, then the hops kicks in and obliterates the taste buds.  Mouthfeel is of medium body and the aftertaste is certainly brash and bitter, nutty and dry.  Overall a stunning display of brash fortitude; a brazen symphony, punctuated by rich Belgian strains and a triumphant crescendo of hops.  Not for the timid.

It took me a long time to revisit this bold fellow.  His attitude was a bit much the first time around, but if you like good craft beers, especially those that push the boundaries, try this guy out.  You won't be disappointed, but you may just walk away with a black eye.

Prost!

Saturday, January 7, 2012

Hopworks Urban Brewery (Portland, OR) - Secession Cascadian Dark Ale (CDA)


Outside of the Pacific Northwest, little is known about the Cascadian independence movement.  From 1818 until 1846 the Columbia District of Oregon Territory extended from the 42nd parallel to the 54th parallel (great map on Wikipedia) so not only is there cross-border history up here, but there's also the ecological connection as the majority of the region lies within the Columbia River watershed.  And yes, the Cascade mountains, Pacific Ocean, the nearly tropical Marine West-Coast climate and the best selling book Ecotopia have all helped to further define a bioregional identity in the Northwest.  Needless to say, it's a little complex.

Perhaps it's this sort of complexity that inspired Hopworks Urban Brewery (HUB) to contribute to the eventual creation of a new beer style with their Secession Cascadian Dark Ale (CDA).  HUB first started brewing this gem back in the Summer of 2009 (releasing it in the bottle for the first time this month), this CDA (originally called a Black IPA) combines the two prominent features of most Pacific Northwest beers: roasted malts and intense hops.  Featuring organic pilsner, crystal, chocolate and black malts, it's clear that a roasted malt flavor is present.  Those malts are countered by 5 varieties of hops (Cascade, Magnum, Amarillo, Falconer's Flight and Mt. Hood) that not only add bitterness, but also an abundance of flavors which I'll detail later.  I've tried a few other local submissions for this style (Deschutes Hop In The Dark and McMenamin's Dark Star ) but I can't say that either of them top HUB's beautifully balanced organic ale. 



On the pour, you can immediately smell those piney and citrusy notes put out by the Amarillo and Cascade hops.  An average sized head accumulates, the beer itself is a dark, rich reddish-brown color, then a slight lacing and a minimal foam top is apparent throughout.  One thing I love about this beer is how I can feel it hit every taste bud on my tongue with it's sweet, bitter and even slightly sour (grapefruit on the aftertaste) profile.  The mouthfeel is that of a medium to light quality, so if there were ever one weakness to this version of the CDA, it'd be it's lighter body.  Yet with it's not so thick body, rich roasted flavor, then dry finish this dark ale is surprisingly refreshing and a quick drink.  The finish is that of a West Coast IPA with a bitter, then sour profile.  In all, this beer represents all those qualities that separate Oregonian beers from the rest, sweet roasted maltiness and various layers of hoppy goodness, all at once.

It stands at an ABV of 6.5% and an IBU of 70 (identical to Hop In The Dark), so it's not for the faint of heart and certainly not for those who don't like heavily hopped beers.  If you're looking for a different kind of beer, something more adventurous and a break from the norm, then this is your beer. After 3/4's of a 22oz, I feel pretty good... some might even say I've seceded from reality.

Prost!